
I first came across this wine at The Society’s recent press tasting, when it was such a new vintage that it did not yet have a label. Wines without labels always make me wonder whether they will feel quite the same once they are actually on sale. For me, this was one of the best wines in the tasting, so I had to give it another try now that it is generally available.
First of all, it comes from La Rioja Alta, one of the names best known for traditional, age-worthy Rioja wines, and widely considered one of Rioja’s classic producers.
It is 100% Tempranillo, with 14% abv, and it is the same wine as the estate’s private members’ cuvée, Viña Alberdi. It is named after Nicolás Alberdi, who was president of the winery from 1947 to 1952. The wine is aged for two years in American oak barrels from La Rioja Alta’s own cooperage.
It opens beautifully with dried red fruits, leather, tobacco and sweet spice. It is dry, medium-bodied and has low to medium tannins, with a matured red-fruit character. The finish is long, elegant and slightly savoury. I am very happy to say it lives up to my press tasting impressions. It has an immense aromatic presence. At first the tannins felt lighter, though they seemed to appear more clearly after around 30 minutes, and I am not entirely sure why. It does perhaps come across as a bit more smoky.
When I went to this year’s The Best of Rioja, I afterwards mentioned the general discontent from producers that too many low-priced wines were now being released as Reserva. This one is not low-priced, but then again it is not high-priced when you measure it against others I have tasted. The fact that it is a Reserva is almost inconsequential.
This is such a great wine that I have had to order, perhaps too many, more. It is available for £18.50 from The Wine Society.














