Malbec is to reds what Pinot Grigio is to whites. There are too many average mass-market examples around, along with a handful of real stars, and this is one of the stars. I first tried it at the 2026 Sainsbury’s Spring/Summer press tasting, picked it out there, and was determined to investigate it properly afterwards.
It comes from Bodega Argento, with Juan Pablo Murgia as head winemaker. He is from Mendoza, but travelled to build his experience in California, Bordeaux and Uruguay. Juan has also been recognised as a pioneer in Mendoza.
Bodega Argento’s vineyards and wineries are certified under the Fairtrade International Standard, but Sainsbury’s missed a trick here. They could have made something of that, but for some reason didn’t. The name “Zurriago”, meaning whip, was likely chosen to bring to mind Argentina’s rugged, traditional gaucho cowboy culture. This is the 2024 vintage, 13% ABV, made from 85% Malbec and 15% Bonarda grapes. It is also vegan.
It is great from opening, but give it 30 minutes in the glass or decanter to get the most from it. The colour is deep purple, with black plum, blackberry, violet and cocoa coming through. On tasting, it brings black fruits and sweet spice. It is dry, full-bodied, with low to medium tannins and a long, dark-fruited finish. There is a great mouthfeel here, and it has a smoother ending than many others. It is as good as, if not better than, I remembered from the press tasting.
At £9.00 from Sainsbury’s, it is excellent value. Even more amazing at £6.75 when it is on the buy three or more, save 25% offer, as it is at the time of writing.
