On April 29, 2024, I had the pleasure of attending the trade/press day for the Real Wine Fair in London, an event that brought together 180 organic, biodynamic, and low-intervention producers. With a staggering array of 900+ wines, this fair was a vibrant showcase of some of the world’s most talented artisan vignerons.
Although it was impossible to visit every producer’s stand or taste all the wines, I made a large effort to try as much as possible. However, I must have missed many great wines.
The low-intervention approach taken by producers often results in wines that are not necessarily typical of their regions. In some cases, wine critics might even regard these variations as faults. However, it’s essential to judge each wine on its own merits rather than comparing them to traditional expectations or typicity.
Having never before tasted such a vast array of low-intervention wines at a single event, I began to detect certain patterns. Many of these wines, though not all, presented an initial ‘barnyard’ or leather aroma. This characteristic, sometimes described as ‘funky’, is usually attributed to the natural yeasts used during fermentation and is something of an acquired taste. Additionally, desirable nutty or yeasty scents were often more noticeable, likely due to prolonged contact with the lees. The event also highlighted a focus on younger, more vibrant wines rather than the traditional bold, full-bodied varieties, although there were notable exceptions to this trend.
These are the wines that stood out for me (none with ‘barnyard’ aroma, that I haven’t yet come to like):
Prices are trade prices excluding vat which somehow seem to be broadly similar to retail prices found online.
Mengoba Mencía Alicante Bouschet 2021 Spain 13.5% £15.95
Winemaker Gregory Pérez doesn’t use of herbicides, also ensuring that any interventions to control diseases or pests are carefully measured and only applied as necessary to mitigate threats. Pérez is an advocate for traditional winemaking techniques, which he believes are essential to truly capture and express the terroir. This philosophy extends to the use of vineyard-specific yeasts, which contribute to the distinctive flavour profiles and unique character of each wine. This wine is primarily made from Alicante Bouchet grapes, complemented by a smaller proportion of Mencía grapes. This blend results in wines with a deep colour and a herbal aroma. The palate is rich and fruity, with a balsamic quality and rounded tannins.
2021 Finca A Ponte Guimaro 2021 Spain 13.5% £30
This blend comprises Mencía, Caiño, Souson, Brancellao, and Merenzao grapes and is made using indigenous yeasts. After fermentation, it is aged for 12 months in oak barrels, which enhances its complexity and depth. The aroma is notably fragrant and floral. On the palate, this wine bursts with the fresh flavours of plum, redcurrant and cherry, complemented by subtly spiced notes. The overall profile is rich and harmonious, with silky tannins that round out the experience.
Loxarel Cora 2022 Spain 11.5% £11.10
The vineyard operates on biodynamic principles, deeply integrating natural elements into every aspect of the winemaking process. This commitment to natural methods includes the use of goats to de-leaf the vines, a practice that not only helps manage the canopy but also enhances the ecological balance of the vineyard. The wine itself presents a profound fragrance, I just thought to myself ‘wow’, marked by an enticing blend of green apple, citrus and floral notes. Excellent value for money.
Loxarel A Pèl Ancestral Pet Nat 2022 Spain 12% £17.65
This wine is the sister wine to the Cora, offering a sparkling experience crafted entirely from 100% Xarel-lo grapes. Each bottle is distinctively wrapped in black paper, adding an element of elegance and mystery to its presentation. The wine is lively, bubbling vigorously and is of pet-nat style which also lends a delightful cloudiness to its appearance. The aromas are a captivating mix of floral notes and honey. On the palate, it features bright lemon and distinct mineral flavours, delivering a refreshing and crisp finish.
Les Voranès Corpinnat Brut Nature 2019 Spain 11% £25.10
This premium Cava is produced from Macabeo and Xarel-lo grapes, cultivated on organic and biodynamic vines rooted in limestone soils. The second fermentation, crucial for producing its sparkling quality, occurs directly in the bottle using must from the same vineyard and vintage, ensuring purity and consistency in flavour. The winemaking process is meticulously natural, involving no filtration, stabilisation, clarification, sulphites, fining agents or commercial yeasts. This hands-off approach is complemented by an exceedingly long ageing period of 28 months on the lees, all under a natural cork stopper, which significantly enhances the wine’s complexity and depth. The resulting Cava boasts a unique and complex profile, characterised by a distinct middle taste I thought was reminiscent of digestive biscuits. This biscuity note is seamlessly integrated with mineral and citrus flavours, creating a sophisticated and memorable tasting experience.
Pop Cozs Red 2022 Portugal 13% £13.60
This wine comes from the esteemed Vinho de Portugal denomination in Lisbon and is meticulously crafted from 100% Castelão grapes. The grapes are sourced from vines that are over 40 years old, contributing to the depth and complexity of the wine’s profile. On the nose, it offers enticing stone fruit aromas, enriched by herbaceous undertones and subtle hints of salinity, creating a harmonious and inviting bouquet. The palate reveals flavours of ripe red fruits and dried herbs, blending traditional tastes with a refreshing complexity. The overall character of the wine is delicate yet sophisticated. It features fine-grained tannins that are smoothly integrated, enhancing the structure and finish of the wine.
Raiz White 2022 Portugal 11.5% £14.50
This wine, a sister to the Pop Cozs, offers a bold and innovative take on traditional Vinho Verde, that I’d describe as “Vinho Verde on steroids”. Moving away from the conventional production methods of mass-produced Vinho Verde, this wine employs skin contact and aging to craft an intense and flavourful experience. It is an orange wine made from the Loureiro grape and has a deep, translucent amber colour. The wine exudes alluring aromas of tangerine and spice, drawing in the senses with its vibrant and aromatic profile. On the palate, it delivers a juicy combination of candied fruits, with prominent notes of tangerine, complemented by a warm spice undercurrent. This wine is decidedly different and tasty.
Serra Oca White 2022 Portugal 12% £15.30
The Serra Oca White from Portugal is crafted with a philosophy of minimal intervention, embracing the natural characteristics of the Fernao Pires and Arinto grapes. This wine is made from whole berries that are fermented on their skins, unusual for white wines, thereby enriching it with additional depth and complexity. The wine displays a pronounced mineral and floral profile on the nose. On the palate, it is intense and fresh, and reminiscent of Tokaji wine. The tasting experience is further enhanced by notes of apricot and dried fruits, adding layers of sweetness and texture.
Serra Oca Red 2018 Portugal 13.5% £15.80
This is a sister to the Serra Oca White and is a blend that primarily features Touriga Nacional, complemented by Castelão and Aragonez grapes. It boasts a vivid ruby colour that immediately captures the eye, promising a robust and lively wine experience. The aroma is indeed rich with the scents of wild berries and a complex mix of spices. On the palate, the wine is intense, delivering a full-bodied taste that aligns with its aromatic promise. This intensity is carried through with a long finish.
Barat Vino Blanco 2021 Italy 11.5% £25.00
From the renowned region of Monferrato in Piedmont, winemaker Fabrizio Luli is dedicated to a philosophy of minimal intervention in both the fermentation and ageing processes of his wines. Emphasising the use of natural yeasts, he refrains from fining or filtering his creations, allowing the wines to express their true character and the essence of their terroir. The result is a very aromatic wine, bursting with floral and mineral notes, and a distinct hint of lime on the nose. Flavours of hazelnut and unripe apricot weave through the profile, adding layers of taste that are reminiscent of a good Riesling. The wine concludes with a crisp, medium finish.
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Camporenzo 2020 13% £20.10
For this vineyard, biodynamic agriculture is not just a method but a commitment to enhancing biodiversity and supporting the natural ecosystem. The vineyard practices this philosophy by planting herbs like rosemary and lavender during the summer to attract bees, enhancing pollination and natural diversity. In winter, cereals are sown; their roots naturally move through and aerate the soil, helping to maintain its health and vitality. The Camporenzo wine itself is a blend, consisting of 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, and 20% Rondinella. This wine spends nine months aging in oak barrels, which imparts depth and character before it is finally bottled. Upon tasting, Camporenzo reveals aromatic hints of red fruits and sweet spices on the nose. The palate follows through with more red fruits and includes a herbal richness, with a structure that is both well-balanced and robust.
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Stropa 2015 Italy 16% £72.70
This sister wine to Camporenzo is made from a blend of Rondinella, Corvinone, Oseleta, and Corvina grapes, providing a robust structure and deep flavours. It exudes perfumes of ripe fruits, including plums, blackberries and redcurrants, offering a rich and inviting aromatic experience. As the tasting progresses, subtle yet distinctive balsamic hints emerge, followed by a sprinkling of spices that add depth and complexity to the palate. While this wine commands a higher price, it justifies its cost through its exceptional quality and outstanding character.
Tara Red 2 ~ Syrah 2016 Chile 13.5% £26.55
Tara is a distinctive wine project, rooted in the harsh and dramatic landscape of the Atacama Desert, the driest desert on Earth. The extreme conditions of this unique terroir — including minimal rainfall, highly saline soils, and relentless winds — play a crucial role in shaping the pure and distinctive flavours of Tara’s wines. The winemaking process embraces a hands-off philosophy, utilising native yeasts for fermentation and traditional techniques such as foot pressing and hand bottling. This approach ensures minimal interference with the natural expression of the grapes. The blend comprises 80% Syrah and 20% Merlot. The Syrah provides a backbone of freshness, characterised by spices and herbs, along with firm tannins that structure the wine. The Merlot adds layers of ripe, dark berry fruits and soft tannins. On the palate, it reveals a depth of flavour, leading to a long finish where woody and spicy notes linger.
Pheasant’s Tears Saperavi 2021 Georgia 13% £15.65
A collaboration between John Wurdeman, an artist from the US, and Gela Patalishvili, a multi generation vigneron from Georgia. The grapes are fermented and aged in qvevri, large earthenware vessels buried underground, which is a method traditional to Georgian winemaking. This process uses no additives, except for a minimal amount of SO2 added to some bottlings only when deemed necessary. The wine itself is powerful and fresh, with an abundance of dark-berried fruits that dominate the palate. It is full-bodied and showcases a balanced tannin structure that melds seamlessly with the fruit and acidity, creating a harmonious and rounded profile with a long finish. Excellent value for money.
Pepin Orange France 13.5% £16.75
This wine comes from an estate in Alsace that has used biodynamic practices since 2003. The estate spans 18.5 hectares of vineyards alongside 6 hectares of fruit trees. From these, the family also produces Pet Nats using black and red cherries, damsons and Victoria plums. This wine is a Guwurztraminer, presented as an unfiltered orange wine. It undergoes several days of maceration on the skins, a process that intensifies its flavours and structure. The result is a deeply aromatic and floral wine, with pronounced notes of citrus and ripe tangerines complemented by a hint of spice. The tannins are balanced, adding smoothness and a well-rounded structure to the wine. This Guwurztraminer is a superb example of how minimal intervention can enhance the natural qualities of the grape. The extended skin contact not only deepens the complexity but also contributes to a smoother texture and a more structured body.
Gloussard Plouplou 2022 France 13% £19.90
All vineyard work is carried out manually, with horses employed for ploughing, which not only reduces the reliance on mechanical means but also enhances soil health. Additionally, sheep graze between the vines, naturally managing the grass and weeds, and contributing to the ecosystem’s biodiversity. The vineyard achieved organic certification in 2023 and is currently transitioning to biodynamic practices. One of the most striking characteristics of the wine produced is its exceptionally floral bouquet.
NV Cerdon Rosé France 8.5% £15.60
Sister wine to the Gloussard Plouplou. A sparkling red, again with an exceptional Floral nose. A great Summer wine.
Autrement de Lamery France 2016 £18.30
Situated in the southeast of Bordeaux, near the banks of the Garonne in Entre Deux Mers, this vineyard boasts vines that range from 25 to over 70 years of age. The vineyard cultivates a mix of the classic Bordeaux grape varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot — alongside the less common Côt, or Malbec. Embracing biodynamic practices since 2016, the vineyard is dedicated to sustainable and holistic methods. This wine features aromatic jammy fruits complemented by a subtle earthy spice, capturing the rich, fertile terroir of the region. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of black fruit flavours and slightly nutty oak, underpinned by excellent acidity. The tannins are well-balanced, contributing to a structured and satisfying mouthfeel. This wine culminates in a lingering finish that reiterates the deep black fruit notes. This wine not only stands out for its complexity and balance, but it also represents exceptional value for a quality Bordeaux.
