Fiona Beckett, the Guardian’s wine critic for nearly 14 years, is stepping down to pursue other interests, mainly travel, as she approaches her 76th birthday.
Reflecting on changes since she began in 2010, Fiona notes her shift towards lighter, fresher wines, the rise of natural and orange wines and the increasing quality of English and Greek wines. She encourages readers to be adventurous in their wine choices and kind to her successor. Beckett will continue writing on her website and Substack.
(I took the above photo, heavily cropped, at a recent M&S press tasting)
Six wines Fiona recommends:
- Wine Atlas Carricante 2023 – £6.50 at Asda, 12.5% ABV. A crisp Sicilian wine, great alternative to pricier Picpoul.
- Gros Manseng Vin Orange 2022 – £8.25 at Asda, 12% ABV. An affordable entry to orange wines, pairs well with Middle Eastern dips.
- Astobiza Txakoli 2022 – £13.63 + delivery at Decántalo, £19 at Highbury Vintners, 13% ABV. A crisp, dry Basque Country wine, ideal with anchovies and sushi.
- Domaine Jean Maupertuis Gamay d’Auvergne Pierres Noires 2023 – £26 at Les Caves de Pyrène, 12% ABV. A volcanic red with crunchy red fruit, perfect with charcuterie and salads.
- Chateau Ksara Sunset Rosé 2023 – £15.99 at strictlywine.co.uk, 13.5% ABV. A deeply coloured Lebanese rosé, dry and ideal for barbecues.
- Westwell Village Chardonnay 2023 – £22.50 at Westwell Wines, 10.5% ABV. A low-alcohol, crisp English Chardonnay, similar to old-school Chablis, pairs well with oysters and shellfish.
