
On Tim Atkin’s site, Jason Millar argues that “no-low” alcohol, especially wine, is far more hype than transformation. Jason says UK no/low still wine has actually fallen from 1.7% to 1.5% of still-wine spend over four years, and much growth in no-alcohol wine is cannibalising low-alcohol wine rather than replacing standard wine.
He says sparkling no-low is doing better, but the total no-low wine market remains tiny compared with the wider UK off-trade wine market. Buyer loyalty is weak, with many people purchasing no/low wine only once a year, often for Dry January, Christmas drivers, or special occasions.
The article also challenges the idea that Gen Z will drive a moderation revolution, citing IWSR data showing alcohol participation among legal-drinking-age Gen Z rising between 2023 and 2025. Its conclusion is that no-low may become more like decaf coffee, a useful minority option, not the future of the category.
Personally, I have found very few no-alcohol wines that I genuinely enjoy. While quality has undoubtedly improved, most still struggle to replicate the balance, texture and complexity that make wine appealing in the first place.
Low-alcohol wines can work, but generally only when they come from styles that are naturally lower in alcohol anyway. A Mosel Riesling at 8% ABV or a Vinho Verde at 10% ABV feels authentic because that is how those wines have traditionally been made. They retain their character rather than having alcohol removed after the fact.
Low-alcohol reds, however, remain something of a disaster area. Red wine relies heavily on alcohol for body, structure and flavour delivery, and reducing it often leaves the wine feeling thin, unbalanced and unsatisfying. As a result, I rarely bother tasting wines in these categories any more when attending tastings. There are occasional exceptions, but they are few and far between.
If you want a genuinely enjoyable no-alcohol option, my advice would be to look beyond wine altogether, as you will often find more satisfying alternatives, and at a lower price.











