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Cepa Lebrel Crianza

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I first came across an recommended this wine at a Lidl press tasting and wanted to try it again in a less rushed setting. The striking thing at that time was how great it was for just £5.79.

It is 100% Tempranillo, from the 2022 vintage, with a punchy 15% ABV.

Cepa Lebrel is Lidl’s white label brand and the name is used across a range of producers. Even so, there is some real provenance here. The actual producer is Bodegas Isidro Milagro. A big part of the low price comes from the fact that the producer is owned by the Kingsland Drinks empire, which brings major economies of scale. Even with that, the wine is bottled at source rather than bulk bottled, because Rioja rules currently forbid bulk bottling in other countries.

In the glass, it is a bright, medium ruby. The aroma is bold and really appealing, full of red cherry, vanilla, dill and sweet spice from the oak. On the taste, there is plenty of red fruit with a gentle oak and spice running through it. It is dry, with a medium body, medium tannins and a spiced, medium finish. The tannins subside very nicely by the next day.

It is unusual to find this kind of medium tannic structure at this price level, where wines are often much flatter. At a strong 14%, it perhaps feels a little less balanced and the only things really missing are roundness and length. Even so, this is the best Rioja I have found at this price point, and it is very drinkable.

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