France, Laithwaites, Reviews, Sustainable

Victorious

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16 January 2026

This is an interesting new release from Domaine des Malandes, best known for its fine Chablis, though this wine takes a different direction. It’s made from a new grape variety and is produced with a strong focus on sustainability.

The fruit comes from a single vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais, owned by grower Richard Rottiers. The wine is made by his sister, Amandine Marchive, at the Malandes winery in Chablis. It’s produced entirely from Voltis, a hybrid grape originally introduced in Champagne. Voltis is well suited to warm, damp conditions and is valued for its disease resistance, which reduces the need for spraying and heavy vineyard work. As a result, the overall environmental impact is considerably lower.

As an aside, the Voltis grape was developed through a joint project between France’s INRA and Germany’s Julius Kühn Institute, launched in 2000 to create PIWI varieties that could grow with little or no chemical treatment. These grapes also need fewer tractor passes through the vineyard, which also helps prevent soil compaction. There are only about 3,000 hectares planted across France so far, and Voltis is not yet allowed in other AOCs.

The decision to plant Voltis came from concerns about spraying near residential areas surrounding the vineyard. Even organic sprays, which often involve copper and sulphates, can be a concern. Voltis offered a solution, and in the warm, wet 2024 season, only one round of organic treatment was needed, compared to the usual dozen in conventional vineyards.

So what is it like? This is one of those entertaining wines that change significantly with temperature. When cold, it has aromas of peach and pear. On the tongue, there’s a fresh, slightly saline, pear flavour, with medium length and a light leesy character. It has a clean, cool feel and a style that reflects the Chablis made at Malandes. As it warms, the aroma leans more towards melon and grapefruit, the salinity softens, and the wine becomes slightly rounder and more textured, with a character not unlike Muscadet.

Laithwaites is the first UK retailer to offer a wine made entirely from Voltis, priced at £16.99.

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