In early September 2024, I attended a tasting lunch in London hosted by Benjamin Franchetti, the owner of Tenuta di Trinoro, a renowned estate known for its Super-Tuscan wines.
The estate was founded by Benjamin’s late father, Andrea Franchetti, who defied expectations by creating a world-class Super-Tuscan from scratch, without any outside help. Although Tenuta di Trinoro fits the definition of a Super-Tuscan, using international grape varieties, aged in barriques and produced in limited quantities, Benjamin prefers not to classify the wines in this category. He values the creative freedom to craft unique wines without restrictions or expectations.
Andrea’s legacy of crafting unique, age-worthy wines is now continued by Benjamin, assisted by winemaker Lorenzo Fornaini. The tasting featured their ‘second wine’, Le Cupole 2021, followed by a vertical tasting of their flagship wine, Tenuta di Trinoro, with vintages from 2013, 2015, and 2021. The wines were accompanied by bold beef tartare and spicy chicken dishes from The Petersham, which challenged the depth and complexity of the wines.
We began with Le Cupole 2021, which has an ABV of 15% and is a blend of 56% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Petit Verdot. This wine represents about 70% of the estate’s production, with 120,000 bottles produced annually. While Le Cupole is often referred to as the second wine of the estate, the majority of the winemaking effort goes into it. The 2021 vintage was marked by a year of contrasting weather, initially cold, followed by heat, resulting in a wine that is fruity, with notes of red and blackcurrants and subtle oak and velvety tannins. To my surprise, it went ok with the rich and flavoursome oniony steak tartare, standing up to this robust dish.
The flagship wine, Tenuta di Trinoro, has garnered high praise from critics, receiving 95 points from both Decanter and James Suckling, as well as 96 points from Robert Parker. It boasts a Vivino rating of 4.5 stars and is known for its richness, depth, and complexity, with balanced tannins and a balsamic core. This wine is made in very limited quantities, with fewer than 8,500 bottles produced each year and the blending varies significantly from vintage to vintage. The estate’s vineyard is divided into 50 parcels, each fermented separately, with only the top 5% to 6% making it into the final blend. Andrea’s goal was always to craft wines that would age well.
The vertical tasting of the 2013, 2015, and 2021 vintages provided a fascinating insight into past and even future vintages. The 2013, with 14.5% ABV and a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, was the result of a relatively cool summer. It had the most mellowed tannins of the three wines but none had strong tannins. It retained a softness and balance that made it enjoyable both on its own and with food. I found this vintage the best of the three for drinking on it’s own without food.
The 2015 vintage, at 15% ABV, was a well-balanced blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 60% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot. This wine was slightly more fruity.
Finally, we tasted the 2021 vintage, which marked Benjamin’s first vintage since taking over from his late father. With 15.5% ABV, this bolder wine, consisting of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, showcased Benjamin’s current, perhaps also future, intent to craft wines that are elegant, bolder yet more approachable for earlier drinking, while still retaining the capacity to age. I found it to be the boldest of the three, and its strength paired well with the food. Personally, despite youngest, this was my favourite, as I have a preference for bolder wines.
In summary, the tasting provided a glimpse into the remarkable legacy left by Andrea Franchetti and how his son Benjamin is skillfully continuing his vision. Through wines like Tenuta di Trinoro and Le Cupole, the estate remains at the forefront of craftsmanship, unbound by (Italian) convention and driven by a deep passion for quality.
These wines are available from Petersham Cellar, the London-based independent specialist in cult and fine wines. The Tenuta di Trinoro is a cult wine, sells for £337 and is for when you really want to impress. For me, Le Cupole isn’t far behind on taste and offers the same essence of Tenuta di Trinoro for only £37.
