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No.1 Grüner Veltliner

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I first discovered and took a liking to this wine during a Waitrose press tasting. Produced by Markus Huber at his family-run winery in the Traisental Valley, it is made entirely from Grüner Veltliner grapes grown on a single estate. The vines are planted on slopes that run beside a river and the wine spends four months maturing on its lees, adding depth and character. It’s suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. This is the 2024 vintage, with an alcohol content of 12%.

In appearance, it has a pale lemon hue. Aromatically, there’s a fresh burst of citrus alongside ripe apricot. The taste is led by crisp citrus and apple fruit with a peppery spice. It has a medium body and finishes with a lively mix of pepper, a slight saline edge and a bright citrus kick. The four months on lees give it a generous depth of flavour, making it particularly satisfying, even when served well chilled.

Some reviews on the Waitrose site mention it being sweet, but that’s not accurate. The residual sugar is relatively low. The richness and impact of the flavour might throw some people off, making it seem sweeter than it actually is. My wife thought it was edging towards a Gewürztraminer in character, and I can see what she means. There’s a shared intensity and richness, which would pair well with the same kind of food. Asian dishes, anything with spice.

This is part of the No.1 range, which somehow manages to contain more than its fair share of genuinely impressive wines.

£12.30 from Waitrose.

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