From Tesco’s Autumn Winter Tasting, it became clear that Tesco are focusing on adding more premium wine offerings. This shift and market conditions has encouraged some wine producers/importers, who once avoided supplying supermarkets, to reconsider, with Tesco now starting to compete more with retailers like Majestic and independent wine shops. With this in mind, I decided to start reviewing some of these premium selections, beginning with El Enemigo Cabernet Franc that has a high 4.3 on Vivino, 99/100 from James Suckling and 92/100 from Robert Parker.
This wine, supplied through C&C Group/Bibendum Wine, is notable for being bottled at source, unlike a large proportion of supermarket wines bulk bottled, thus retaining all the authenticity and provenance. While it is also available at some independent wine retailers, it is priced very competitively at Tesco, which is sure to stir some debate.
The name El Enemigo means “The Enemy”. Made by historian/vintner Adrianna Catena and soils engineer Alejandro Vigil, the brand represents Argentina’s culture, tradition and history. Their mission statement, rather than description on the bottle, has the thought provoking: “At the end of the journey, we remember only one battle: The one that we fought against ourselves, the one that defined us”.
This 2021 vintage is from Mendoza, specifically the high-altitude Gualtallary region in the Uco Valley. Argentina is more known for Malbec than Cabernet Franc, so this wine offers an interesting exploration. However, the blend does include 10% Malbec, enhancing the fruit character. It also involves wild yeast fermentation, 15 months of aging in 100-year-old foudres and unfiltered bottling.
The wine has a deep ruby colour and I found it benefits from decanting for at least an hour. There are aromas of blackcurrant with a slight hint of cherry, likely from the Malbec. It is medium to full-bodied with a very smooth, round mouthfeel. The taste offers layers of blackcurrant, tobacco and, towards the end of the lingering finish, dark chocolate. The tannins are beautifully integrated and complemented by balanced acidity, creating a seamless tasting experience without interruptions in taste often found in less refined wines. It’s not a blockbuster, high-flavour wine but rather something more refined and elegant, inviting contemplation.
At £18 from Tesco, El Enemigo Cabernet Franc is already competitively priced compared to independent retailers. During Tesco’s 25% off promotions, where buying six mixed bottles or more reduces the cost further, it drops to £13.50. This makes it exceptional value for this wine.
