In March 2025, I attended the Bulgarian Tasting and Masterclass in London, which specifically focused on the Thracian Lowlands, one of Bulgaria’s two PGI regions.
The Masterclass, led by Dr Jamie Goode, centred on Bulgaria’s indigenous grape varieties. The walkaround tasting featuring over 60 wines. Representatives from The Jolly Merchants, Danube Wines, and Swig importers were present, alongside winemakers from Maruga Winery, Aya Estate and Katarzyna Winery.
Jamie Goode covered various aspects of Bulgarian wine, including its history, geography, regional and sub-regional areas, soil types and grape varieties. I explore these topics and more, in the article on Understanding Bulgarian Wines.
During the Masterclass, we tasted five whites and five reds. The most memorable for me were:
Tipchenitza Winery Oak Barrel Vrachanski Misket & Chardonnay 2022 (12.75% ABV, RRP £27). This white blend consists of 50% Vrachanski Misket and 50% Chardonnay, fermented in stainless steel before spending 12 months in French oak. The relatively new winery, established in 2018, follows a minimal intervention approach. Some might describe this wine style as old-fashioned because it is over-oaked, but I found it thoroughly enjoyable. The wine had a floral aroma and an oaky vanilla taste with a smooth mouthfeel and a long finish.
Villa Melnik Aplauz Melnik 55 2020 (14.86% ABV, RRP £26). This red wine is made entirely from Melnik 55, also known as Early Melnik, a cross between Broadleaf Melnik and Valdigier, developed in 1963 to ensure earlier ripening to better suit the climate. Villa Melnik is a family-run winery with 200 years of winemaking history. The wine was fermented in steel and aged for 18 months in Bulgarian oak. It reminded me of a fruit-forward Primitivo di Manduria but with more tannins.
AYA Estate Early Melnik 2022 (13.5% ABV, RRP £23). This red wine comes from a modern, organic and biodynamic winery. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in old oak for eight months before being moved to stainless steel. Also made from 100% Melnik 55, it showcased the versatility of this grape variety. This version was again full-bodied but instead with pronounced balsamic and liquorice aromas and flavours, along with a touch of spice.
At the walkaround tasting, I particularly enjoyed:
Bononia Gomotartzi Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (13% ABV, RRP £13). This white wine offered a unique interpretation of Sauvignon Blanc, featuring apple, apricot and pear notes rather than the more typical tropical New Zealand style. It had a character more akin to a French Sauvignon Blanc but still stood apart with its own very distinct identity. Dry, yet soft and mellow.
Bononia Vrachanski Misket 2022 (12% ABV, RRP £18). Made from the ancient grape variety Vrachanski Misket, this white wine was floral with mandarin, grapefruit and honeyed notes, displaying an elegance and persistance similar to a quality dry Riesling.
Edoardo Miroglio Soli Pinot Noir 2021 (13.5% ABV, RRP £16.50). A 100% Pinot Noir red wine with no oak influence. It had pronounced violet aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry. Delicate yet flavourful, with soft tannins, this wine offered excellent value.
Observations from the event highlighted Bulgaria’s success in wine not only in its indigenous grape varieties but also in making outstanding wines from international varieties and even sucessfully blending indigenous with international grapes. The diversity of styles was impressive, ranging from light, crisp, fresh and acidic wines to full-bodied, high-alcohol reds, all from the same country. I was particularly taken with Melnik 55, also known as Early Melnik, and will be looking out for Bulgarian wines featuring this varietal in the future.
