In February 2025, I attended Tim Atkin MW’s Best of Rioja tasting in London. Like the inaugural event last year, this was a truly rare occasion, bringing together an incredible collection of wines in one room. In this year when Rioja celebrates the 100th anniversary of the creation of its Denominación de Origen, the event featured nearly 300 wines, showcasing the very best the region has to offer.
Almost all of Rioja’s top bodegas were present, with the lineup consisting of the First and Second Growths from Tim’s annual Rioja Report, complemented by an equally important group of rising stars. Six new bodegas joined this year, adding fresh perspectives to an already impressive selection. Many of the winemakers were there in person, pouring their wines and sharing insights.
Having attended last year’s tasting, I wanted to take a different approach this time. Previously, my focus was on tasting the top icons to better calibrate my understanding of what defines excellence in Rioja. This year, I aimed to explore more wines that, while perhaps less typical, still represented outstanding quality. I began by trying more white wines, an often-overlooked category in Rioja. Additionally, I sought out wines not yet represented in the UK, as part of my ongoing effort to champion them. Last year, I noticed significant differences across vintages of the same wine, which led me to pay closer attention to certain standout years this time. I focused more on the 2010, 2012 and 2019 vintages, wines where maturity should have softened tannins and revealed greater depth and complexity. Of course, I couldn’t resist revisiting a few outstanding wines from last year, while also assessing newer vintages to see how they compared.
Here’s what I discovered:
Whites
Valserrano Gran Reserva White 2019 is made primarily from Viura (88%) with a touch of Chardonnay (12%). Made for ageing, it spends a minimum of 18 months in new French oak and an additional 28 months on its lees. This process results in an intense aroma of vanilla, pastries and herbs, complemented by an oaky depth. I detected a velvety creaminess with flavours of pear and apricot. Available for £41 at Davy’s Wine Merchants and Private Cellar.
Capellanía Gran Reserva 2019 is a 100% Viura wine that undergoes 23 months of maturation in French oak. It exudes aromas of stone fruit and bay leaf, with a dry, oaky profile and distinct mineral notes. A highly acclaimed wine that has won numerous awards, it is priced at £92 and can be found at Selfridges, Philglas & Swiggot, Lay & Wheeler and Harrods.
Finca Valpiedra Reserva Blanco 2019 blends Viura, Garnacha, Malvasía and Maturana Blanca to create a creamy yet fresh white wine. It is intensely perfumed with aromas of honey, minerals, and peach, with a balance that has led some to describe it as a red wine in white disguise. This distinctive wine is available at Berkmann Wine Cellars for £60.
200 Monges Gran Reserva Blanco 2012 is a 100% Viura white wine aged for 24 months in oak. It boasts aromas of dried flowers, ripe fruit, and herbs, leading to a citrus-driven taste with a long, saline finish. Despite its age, it retains freshness, acidity and a subtle oakiness. Available at Wanderlust Wine for £60.
Pretium White Genérico 2020 is a more minerally and fresh wine with smoky notes. A blend of Viura (60%), Malvasía (20%), and Calagraño (20%), it is currently seeking UK distribution.
Baigorri Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2021 (Viura 95%, Malvasía 5%) comes from a relatively recently new producer. With ripe white fruit aromas and a slight balsamic and spicy character, it delivers a creamy texture reminiscent of a red wine, with oaky undertones. Priced at £20, it is also seeking UK distribution.
Baynos Blanco de Viura 2022 is a 100% Viura wine offering tropical and citrus notes alongside a deep smoky, creamy character. The 2021 vintage, also sampled, was slightly softer by comparison. This vintage is priced at £65 and available at City Wine Collection.
Reds
Phinca El Vedao 2019 is a 100% Garnacha red wine that stands out for its highly aromatic red berry fruit and floral character. The intensity of the fruit carries through to the taste, where it comes across as unusually dry but balanced. Available at Hallgarten & Novum Wines for £30.
Baigorri Finca La Navas Maturana 2022 is a rare 100% Maturana wine aged for 14 months in new French oak. Deep purple in colour, it has aromas of black fruit, cocoa, and pastries, with an intense flavour profile. Often regarded as the best Maturana-based wine in Spain, it is currently seeking UK distribution.
Baigorri Garage 2019 is a blend of Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (5%) and Garnacha (5%), sourced from low-yielding vines over 60 years old. With fresh black fruit and mineral aromas, it delivers a creamy, intense taste with ripe fruit and roasted nuances. A previous vintage won 97 points and a Platinum Medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards. It is seeking UK distribution.
Cerrado del Castillo 2019 is a 100% Tempranillo wine that comes across as intense, direct and exotic with spicy tobacco notes. With higher tannins but still youthful, it has rich fruit and a velvety warmth on the finish. Available for £75 at banquist.com.
Exopto Vino Tinto (Garnacha 65%, Tempranillo 30%, Graciano 5%) is made from old bush vines and offers a vibrant red and black fruit aroma, culminating in a blackcurrant juice bomb of a taste. Available at Vagabond Wines.
Ángeles de Amaren 2020 (Tempranillo 90%, Graciano 10%) was a favourite value pick last year. Its inviting aroma of blackberries, cherries, and spices leads into a beautifully balanced mix of oak and fruit. Rich and medium-to-full-bodied, it delivers ripe fruit with notes of vanilla and chocolate. Tannins seem slightly higher than in the 2021 vintage, but it remains great value at £24 via Alliance Wine.
Gran Reserva 904 Selección Especial 2015 (Tempranillo 90%, Graciano 10%) is a classic Rioja icon that was impossible to pass by. It features intense red and black fruit aromas with a silky balance of wood and fruit, finishing on a warming note. It is available at Lay & Wheeler for £66.
Polus Viñas Viejas Reserva 2019 (100% Tempranillo) exudes aromas of ripe black fruits, plums, blackberries and a hint of spice and balsamic. The taste offers ripe fruit with light mineral and spicy nuances, achieving excellent balance. Priced at £28, it is available at The Modest Merchant.
Marqués de Vargas Reserva 2019 (Tempranillo 72%, Mazuelo 18%, Garnacha 10%) is a Rioja with an intense red fruit taste and a caramel finish. It is currently seeking UK distribution.
Marqués de Vargas Gran Reserva 2017 (Tempranillo 75%, Garnacha 15%, Mazuelo 10%) is similar to the Reserva but with a softer profile. While it seems sweeter than the Reserva, its residual sugar content suggests otherwise. It is also seeking UK distribution.
Mitarte Maceración Carbónica 2024 (Tempranillo 80%, Viura 10%, Garnacha 5%) is a young wine, just bottled and was served slightly chilled. With deeply floral aromas and a ripe red fruit bomb of a taste, it is round and smooth demonstrating great Rioja wine, albeit with a different style, is possible without ageing. Mitarte impressed with this and the next wine (indeed all their wines), demonstrating innovative winemaking. Available through Ucopia and Field & Fawcett.
Mitarte Tatos 2017 (100% Garnacha Tinta) contrasts with the previous wine, highlighting Mitarte’s skill with aged wines. Aromas of cherry and redcurrant lead into smooth toasty notes and aromatic herbs. The taste is full-bodied with mellowed tannins and a long creamy finish. Available at Field & Fawcett.
Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Magnum 2016 (Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo, Graciano) is a Rioja icon. With blackberries and spice aromas, it delivers a deep fruit profile with creamy vanilla notes and a long finish. The magnum format means this one still has pronounced tannins for the vintage. Priced at £162, it is available at Ultracomida, The Wine Society, Waitrose and Majestic.
Torre Muga 2020 (14.5%) is a blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo, and Graciano, offering a ‘modern’ take on Rioja. While still considered a premium wine, it was described to me at the tasting as Rioja for those who don’t like the more traditional style. Originally created in 1991, released in 1994, with export markets in mind, it has since evolved into a recognised standard in its own right. The wine is intended to be more intense and slightly more full bodied, more fruity due to less ageing, compared to traditional Rioja. It has been widely distributed, particularly popular in the USA. In the UK, it is available at retailers such as Ultracomida, The Wine Society, Waitrose and Majestic, typically priced around £60.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2012 is another Rioja icon that couldn’t be ignored. With numerous prestigious awards, it has classic Rioja notes with extra caramel, toffee and a warming quality. Available at Selfridges, Philglas & Swiggot, Lay & Wheeler and Harrods for £250.
Proelio La Canal del Rojo 2017 (100% Garnacha) comes from 80-year-old vines, offering a fresh, fruity and mineral profile with red fruit and balsamic aromas. Soft caramel notes in the middle lead to a long finish. Seeking UK distribution.
Proelio Gran Reserva 2015 (100% Tempranillo) features blackberry and cassis aromas, with an oaky, black fruit taste that finishes toasty with tobacco notes. Very well-softened tannins. Seeking UK distribution.
Valenciso 10 Años Después 2014 (100% Tempranillo) has balsamic notes and an intense black fruit aroma, following through on the taste with a lovely oaky quality. Despite its age, some tannins remain. Priced at £45 and available through Boutinot.
Jesus Acha Tinto 2019 is a complex blend of Garnacha (62%), Mazuelo (20%), Tempranillo (10%), Graciano (4%), Viura (2%), and Jaina (2%). Highly aromatic with black fruit notes, I have since learned it gained a Platinum 97-point rating at the Decanter Wine Awards. Seeking UK distribution.
I discovered some truly great wines beyond the well-known icons, including several that stepped outside the typical Rioja profile. Mitarte stood out with a range of excellent wines that were both atypical and captivating, proving that bold approaches can yield remarkable results.
I wonder how Tim Atkin scores wines that break from the norm. I don’t envy his challenge in evaluating such diversity. His Rioja Report is available for purchase and provides a comprehensive guide into Spain’s most famous wine region. It includes a classification of bodegas and cooperatives, wine scores and invaluable recommendations on where to eat and stay.
