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VIN 2025: a French Wine Tasting

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VIN in London marked my first tasting for 2025, an event organised by Business France, the trade section of the French Embassy in the UK, in collaboration with various French partners. This event brought together four UK importers and 34 producers, showing an impressive selection of over 500 wines from multiple French regions.

The wines fell into two main categories: those already imported into the UK by the participating importers, and others, many of which are seeking representation. A notable highlight was the quality of the latter group. Many of these wines had already achieved significant recognition through awards and high scores yet were not yet available in the UK.

An interesting observation was the pricing structure in that the majority of the wines being shown were not at the higher end of the ex-cellar price spectrum. This suggests that, once imported, these wines can be offered at reasonable prices in the UK market, a promising prospect for both trade buyers and consumers. In terms of trade pricing, where information was disclosed, I provide an indicative scale of £ to £££ which is £5 to about £30.

These are the wines that I found most memorable:

Paris Simoneau Touraine OISO 2024 (12%) is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Produced under AOC Val de Loire, it is made entirely from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes. This wine is the result of generations of expertise from a family vineyard that has been lovingly maintained since 1790. This dry, vegan-friendly wine has intense aromatics, featuring herbaceous notes intertwined with the vibrant flavours of passion fruit and grapefruit. Its bold, flavourful character draws comparisons to New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs rather than the more subdued French style. Bright acidity and a crisp citrus finish complete the experience, making it both refreshing and memorable. The 2024 vintage has received notable acclaim, earning 90 points from Decanter and a 4-star rating on Vivino, with a previous vintage recognised with a bronze medal at the International Wine Challenge. A significant portion of this wine is sold directly to private clients, reflecting its exclusivity and broad appeal. £

Cour-Cheverny L’Inspiration 2020 (14.5%) is a rare and captivating white wine from the Loire Valley, made under the AOP Cour-Cheverny designation. Made entirely from 100% Romorantin, a lesser-known sibling of Chardonnay, this grape is now exclusively cultivated in Cour-Cheverny by just 35 producers. This wine has an intense aroma of honey and perhaps almonds, enticing the senses with its rich and inviting profile. On the palate, flavours of apple dominate, beautifully complemented by pronounced oak and woody characteristics that enhance rather than overpower the wine. Its 14.5% ABV contributes to a luxurious mouthfeel, adding depth and balance to its flavour profile. ££

Celliers d’Orfée Sextant White 2022 (13%) is an great white wine from the Languedoc, produced under the AOC Corbières Blanc designation. Made from a harmonious blend of Grenache, Marsanne and Macabeu, this wine represents the producer’s ambitious first-ever white vintage. Designed to mirror the reputation of their renowned Sextant Red (see later), this effort has surpassed expectations, earning an impressive 93 points from Decanter, a higher score than its red counterpart. This wine starts with enticing oaky aromas, leading to a flavour profile dominated by luscious apricot notes, reminiscent of a dry Furmint. ££

Famille Bougrier Touraine Sauvignon Reserve 2024 is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Although not officially listed in the event guide, this wine is imported by Les Producteurs et Vignerons de France. Currently under a temporary label as it awaits bottling, it already hints at its future excellence. Aromatically, this wine bursts with tropical fruit aromas, inviting and vibrant. The palate is mineral-driven and crisp, with refreshing notes of lime and grapefruit that create a zesty, invigorating experience. Adding to its complexity is a distinct saline, salty character, enhancing its unique profile and setting it apart from others. £

Toques & Clochers Limoux Clocher de La Digne d’Amont 2020 (14%) is a well crafted Chardonnay from the Limoux region, exuding elegance and complexity. The wine starts with enticing oaky aromas, drawing you in with warmth and depth. On the palate, it reveals rich peach and nutty flavours, perfectly balanced to create a smooth and luxurious texture. The richness is complemented by a great lengthy finish. ££

Domaine Landmann Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2021 is from Alsace, produced under the prestigious AOC Alsace Grand Cru designation. The wine greets you with fresh aromas of green apple and citrus, lively and invigorating. On the palate, flavours of stone fruit take centre stage, providing a delightful balance of ripeness and acidity. Its particularly round and smooth mouthfeel adds to its appeal. This versatile wine is not only enjoyable on its own but also should shine as a pairing with food. £

Domaine Landmann Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg Alsace 2019 is a dry Riesling from the AOC Alsace Grand Cru appellation. This wine is a testament to the unique character of the wine’s terroir, which imparts a distinctive flinty quality to its profile. Highly rated with a 4.1 score on Vivino. ££

Maison du Cèdre 2022 (12.5%) is a limited-production Pinot Noir from AOP Bourgogne, with only 2,900 bottles made. Bursting with vibrant cherry and raspberry aromatics, it delivers a clean, flavourful profile that highlights its elegance and refinement. A truly excellent wine for those seeking a standout Burgundy experience. £££

Château de Birazel Cuvée Auguste 2020 (13.5%) is a Bordeaux blend, made under the AOP Bordeaux designation. This wine features Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the rare addition of Carménère, a different choice for a French blend that adds complexity and character. Aged for 15 months in new barrels, this medium-bodied wine is intentionally designed to be softer than traditional Bordeaux, making it approachable and easy to drink. It offers rich notes of dark fruit, complemented by hints of liquorice, subtle herbaceous tones and a touch of earthiness, creating a balanced and layered profile. It has received great scores: 90/100 from Markus Del Monego and James Suckling, and 91/100 from Xavier Lacombe and Andreas Larsson. £££

Domaine du Meix Foulot Monopole 2023 (14%) is a Pinot Noir from the esteemed AOC Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Château de Montaigu. Made by a winemaker Agnes de Launay recognised as “Best Wine Maker” by Bourgogne Aujourd’hui in 2024, this wine epitomises excellence and artistry. It has also garnered critical acclaim with 94 points from James Suckling and 93 points from Decanter. This elegant and intense wine greets the nose with strong aromas of red cherry and blackcurrant, vibrant and inviting. The taste is beautifully fruity, offering a seamless balance that extends into a long, satisfying finish. £££

Celliers d’Orfée Sextant Red 2022 (14.5%) is a captivating Rhône-style red wine from the Languedoc, made under the AOC Corbières Rouge designation. A blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, this wine is the counterpart to the previously celebrated Sextant White. This wine opens with a pronounced cedar aroma, layered with enticing notes of blackcurrant. On the palate, rich blackcurrant flavours dominate, seamlessly transitioning to a smooth vanilla finish. Its long finish leaves a lasting impression. Awarded 91 points by Decanter, this wine is imported to the UK by Key Wine Company. ££

Vignoble des Verdots Tours des Verdots Red 2022 (14%) is a red wine from South West France, produced under the AOP Côtes de Bergerac designation. This blend comprises 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Although this vintage has not yet been released, the previous vintage earned an impressive 92 points from James Suckling. The wine opens with an enticing aroma of black cherry, complemented by a subtle hint of pepper. On the palate, it reveals rich blackcurrant flavours, delivering a satisfying and well-rounded experience. £

Malherbes Grand Vin 2015 (14.5%) is an excellent Bordeaux wine from the AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. This blend of 60% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon embodies the richness and elegance of the region’s finest offerings. Aged for 24 months in oak, it delivers both depth and complexity. Aromatically, this wine impresses with intense blueberry aromas, rich and inviting. The taste follows with bold flavours of blackberries, layered and powerful, leading to a long, satisfying finish. Awarded 92 points by both James Suckling and Andreas Larsson. £££

Château St-Ferdinand Cuvée Prestige 2021 (13.3%) is an great Bordeaux from the AOC Lussac Saint-Émilion, made by the talented young winemaker Noémie Tannuau. A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc. With a limited artisan production of only 1,200 bottles, this vintage has already sold out, with anticipation building for the 2022 release. Awarded 91 points by Jane Anson, it has captured the attention of critics and enthusiasts alike. This wine wine has an intense and captivating aroma, while on the palate, it is dry, bold and fruit-forward, delivering a vibrant and satisfying experience. Truly excellent. ££

La Cave de Roquebrun Infini de Schiste 2019 (15%) is a great wine from the Languedoc, produced under the AOP Saint-Chinian designation. It’s made from a harmonious blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvèdre. The aroma is captivating, with notes of perhaps violets adding a floral complexity. The taste is fresh and fruit-driven, with an excellent mouthfeel that is likely enhanced by its higher alcohol content. This combination of freshness, structure and depth creates a wine that is both light yet bold and well-balanced. £££

Domaine Féry, based in Bourgogne, is a rare gem in the world of wine, deserving a spotlight for its impressive and consistent lineup. It is uncommon to encounter a range from a single producer, from different plots, where every red wine is of such excellent quality.

Their 2022 releases showcase the nuanced brilliance of Pinot Noir, with each wine reflecting its unique terroir.

The lineup includes:

  • Savigny-lès-Beaune 2022
  • Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses 2022
  • Gevrey-Chambertin 2022
  • Côte de Nuits Villages Le Clos de Magny 2022

These wines have been praised by critics such as Jasper Morris and Jancis Robinson. While each wine in the lineup offers a distinctive experience, the Gevrey-Chambertin stood out as a personal favourite, with its distinctly earthy notes that capture the essence of its terroir. ££ to £££

Overall for the event, I was pleasantly surprised by how many of the red wines, particularly the Bordeaux, were approachable and ready for drinking now, rather than requiring extended ageing. Through this event, I discovered a remarkable range of nuances within Pinot Noir. It was a fascinating reminder of the grape’s versatility and the skill of the winemakers who bring out its finest characteristics.

Perhaps the most refreshing revelation was that great French wine doesn’t always need to be expensive. While there were one or two notable exceptions, the majority offered great quality at approachable price points.