This is from a new wine range created in house by Maltby & Greek and developed in collaboration with a select group of contemporary Greek winemakers. This is the first I tried, with a Rosé Xinomavro Assyrtiko and a White Assyrtiko also to follow. The range is designed to showcase the country’s most important grape varieties in a clear, contemporary way.
The name ‘Three Bowls’ comes from an ancient Greek text by the comic poet Eubulus, who describes the effects of wine through a series of bowls, ‘krater’, the ancient drinking vessels, and the wisdom of limiting oneself to just three. The light hearted yet restrained sentiment mirrors the lightness, clarity and approachability these wines aim to express.
This 2023 vintage is 100 percent Xinomavro, pronounced ‘ksee NO ma vro’, a name that translates as sour black, a reflection of its naturally high acidity. It comes from Naoussa in the north west of Macedonia and sits at 13.5 percent ABV.
In the glass it has a pale garnet hue. The aroma brings sour cherry, tomato leaf and olive, with a gentle savoury edge. On the taste it is a high acidity red with a savoury, Nebbiolo like character, similarly light in colour and bright in acidity. It is dry, medium in body, with low tannins. The finish is medium in length with a subtle savoury twist. Overall, it feels elegant.
I found it went particularly well with Greek appetisers and feels ‘different’, in a good way. A tip, although it looks light, give it time to breathe in the glass. With air, a sweeter scented ripe cherry character emerges and the texture softens.
Available for £16.00 from MaltbyandGreek.com.
