Petersham Cellar is a London-based independent specialist in cult and fine wines. It was founded by Giovanni Mazzei from the Marchesi Mazzei family, owners of the Castello di Fonterutoli in Tuscany since 1435 and Lara Angelica Boglione from Petersham Nurseries in London. Petersham Cellar is associated with Petersham Nurseries and the group of restaurants including La Goccia and The Petersham in Covent Garden, London.
Petersham Cellar has recently been appointed as the UK agents for Vini Franchetti, owner of well-reknowned Tenuta di Trinoro and Sancaba in Tuscany, as well as Passopisciaro in Sicily. I was pleased to be invited to sample the first offerings from this range at a trade lunch held in June 2024 in London at the The Petersham.
The wines follow the story of the late winemaker Andrea Franchetti, who passed away in 2021. He was renowned for his association with Super-Tuscan wines and, ten years later, for his work with Passopisciaro from Mount Etna in Sicily. A maverick, Andrea followed his instinct and, against all expectations, created a world-class Super-Tuscan from scratch. He then went on to produce acclaimed Etna wines near Passopisciaro. Today, his son Benjamin, assisted by winemaker Lorenzo Fornaini, continues to carry out his vision.
The Passopisciaro estate has revitalised long-abandoned Etna vineyards, bringing them back into production. The vines are planted on the slopes of the active volcano, contributing to the unique character and quality of the wines produced in this remarkable region.
Passopisciaro Passobianco 2022
Inspired by the ageing potential of the great whites of Burgundy, this 100% Chardonnay is aged in concrete as well as large oak barrels and is left to rest on fine lees. It offers delicate flower and citrus aromas with a slightly creamy texture. Unlike Italian Chardonnays from my previous days’ tasting, it is not over-oaked, allowing the fruit to shine through. This wine paired wonderfully with food and retails at around £27.
Passopisciaro Passorosso 2022
This is the only wine with Etna DOC status. It has been awarded an impressive 97 points by James Suckling. It’s made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, coming from old vines that are 100 years old. The wine boasts a red berry fruit nose and is medium-bodied with medium tannins that fade away with food, leaving a pleasant savoury finish. It retails at around £35.
Passopisciaro C Contrada 2022
This wine presents a different expression of Nerello Mascalese, again sourced from old vines. “C” stands for Chiappemacine, the lowest vineyard in the region. It is slightly fuller-bodied than Passorosso due to the underlying limestone bed. With a limited production of only 4,000 bottles, it received 94 points from James Suckling. I found it to be more fruity than Passorosso, with sweet cherry notes complemented by a touch of spice and herbs. The smooth tannins make it enjoyable to drink now. It retails at around £65.
Passopisciaro S Contrada 2022
This wine is again 100% Nerello Mascalese, sourced from a higher location at 850m on a gravelly lava flow from the 1960s. It is my favourite of the three, offering a darker, more full-bodied experience with more oak and a meatier character that suits my particular taste. With a very limited production of just 2,600 bottles, it has been awarded 98 points by James Suckling and 95 points by Vinous. It retails at around £65.
Tenuta di Trinoro was the first project of the talented and determined winemaker Andrea Franchetti. Originally established on land perceived as unfavourable for growing grapes, Andrea worked alone without any help from consultants. He implemented high planting, resulting in very low yields and a remarkable concentration of flavours.
Le Cupole Trinoro 2022
This wine is a blend of four grape varieties: 57% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot. It has a rating of 4.1 on Vivino and constitutes 70% of the estate’s production today, with a total of 120,000 bottles. It has been awarded 94 points by James Suckling and 94 points by Robert Parker. The wine is fruity with red and black berry notes, and a medium, smoky profile with velvety tannins. If I were to be very very picky, it has a very slight acidity or dryness at the end, but this disappeared with food. It retails at around £44.
Tenuta di Trinoro 2021
It was a special opportunity to try this wine for the first time. It is made from 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc and serves as the flagship of the estate. Less than 8,500 bottles are produced on average every year. It has received high acclaim with 95 points from both Decanter and James Suckling, and 96 points from Robert Parker. Also rated 4.5 on Vivino, this wine is extremely aromatic, offering a nose of blackberries with herbal and floral notes. It is rich, deep and complex, featuring balanced tannins and a balsamic middle. There are no rough edges, and it partnered excellently with my steak. Retailing at around £323, I was told it will age well and may even be an investment, though it is very drinkable now.
Sancaba is a new project has been undertaken by Andrea’s son Benjamin, together with Andrea’s cousin Carlo. This venture is situated high in the hills above San Casciano dei Bagni, in a long-abandoned and remote corner of southern Tuscany, on the border with Umbria and Lazio.
Sancaba Pinot Noir 2021
This wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, with only 5,900 bottles produced. The wine is very aromatic, offering complex aromas of raspberry and oak. On the palate, it features black fruit along with herbal and mineral notes, leading to a medium to long finish. The nose doesn’t quite match the taste, adding an intriguing element. It retails at around £71.
There was a bonus, unexpected, wine to finish but not from Vini Franchetti.
Zisola Contrada 2021 is made from 100% Catarratto, originating from south eastern Sicily. This wine has received 95 points from Falstaff and 92 points from Robert Parker. It offers a citrus aroma and is dry but fruity, featuring citrus flavours of grapefruit with a hint of apple. Its refreshing high acidity, intensity and medium finish make it a very engaging drink. It reminded me, and others at the tasting, of Greek Assyrtiko. The retail price is around £65.
These selections from Petersham Cellar showcase a diverse and impressive range of wines, each with its unique character and exceptional quality. From the aromatic and complex Sancaba Pinot Noir to the refreshing and engaging Zisola Contrada, these wines highlight the dedication to craftsmanship and the innovation behind their production.
