I first discovered this wine last year and it quickly became one of my top picks. It stood out not just in character, but as one of my outstanding wines by value. I had the chance to try the new 2023 vintage at the Asda Summer 2025 showcase, and while it still shone, I wanted to compare it more closely with the 2020 vintage. So here we are.
The new vintage shows a touch less browning than the 2020, appearing slightly darker in the glass. It carries that same savoury, almost ‘twiglet’ aroma with striking intensity. On the palate, the profile is familiar, delicate hints of violets and herbs weaving through an intriguing, deep savoury backbone that evokes a definite sense of umami.
Where they diverge is in feel and finish. The 2020 has a warming presence on the tongue, with a softer mouthfeel, whereas the 2023 is a little leaner, with a subtle tannic edge creeping in at the end. That makes the new vintage feel slightly more structured, though also a bit less rounded.
I prefer the 2020, which I found to be something very special. Of course, comparing a fresh release to a bottle with a few years of extra age is always going to skew things. Whether the 2023 will mellow into something closer to its older sibling is yet to be seen. I’ll be keeping one back to find out.
That said, it remains an excellent wine and this vintage recently won a IWSC Silver award. Not (perhaps yet) outstanding like the 2020, but still impressive. The 2023 vintage is currently available from Asda at £9.33, notably less than the previous £11.23. During the 25% off multibuy period, it drops to just £6.93, which makes it unbelievable value. Oddly, as of the time of writing, it’s currently out of stock online, but it may still be on shelves in store or awaiting the next shipment.
