In September 2024, I attended a Fine Wine Evening at my local Majestic in Woking. It was a consumer tasting event, expertly presented by Andrew from Majestic Woking. Andrew, who is soon to move to Majestic Edinburgh, showcased his knowledge throughout the evening, offering insights into the selection of fine wines.
The evening began with a welcome drink of the excellent Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne. Aged for twice the legally required time, this Champagne benefits from extended time on the lees, which imparts a delightful biscuity and toasty flavour, complemented by a slight citrus nuance. It’s no surprise that this wine won an IWC award in 2022. Priced at £48 when purchased as part of a mix six selection.
Next on the tasting list was the Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2020 from Marlborough. A Sauvignon Blanc priced at £49.99 certainly must promise something different. With 13.5% ABV and made using wild yeast, it offers all the usual tropical aromas you’d expect from a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. However, the taste is much less acidic and consequently less fresh than the typical examples from the region, which works to its advantage. This wine is more serious, softer and smoother, making it a unique expression of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc I have never experienced.
The Trimbach Riesling 2014 from Alsace was a standout French Riesling at 13.5% ABV. Its beautiful golden colour hinted at the richness within. On the nose, it offers notes of honey balanced by citrus, while the palate delivers a blend of peach and deep apricot flavours with a twist of citrus. Although it’s a dry wine, the depth of fruitiness gives it the appearance of being less dry. The wine finishes with a long, satisfying finish. Priced at £37.49 when included in a mix six selection.
The Montelena Chardonnay 2021 from Napa Valley carries a legacy, famously known for beating the best of Burgundy at the Judgement of Paris in 1976. At 13.5% ABV, it has a golden colour with rich aromas of oak and vanilla. The palate reveals a beautiful balance of apple, citrus, nectarine and subtle medium oak. The flavour is strong, creamy and smooth. What sets this Chardonnay apart is its unique approach. It’s neither the trendy non/lightly oaked style nor the heavily oaked, old-school version, but rather an intriguing middle ground. This unusual and brave winemaker’s choice is priced at £75 when part of a mix six selection.
The Château de Pommard Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2012, at 13.5% ABV, comes from one of the oldest estates in Burgundy. Despite being a Pinot Noir, it defies typical expectations. Made with indigenous yeasts and aged for nearly two years in French oak, this light-bodied wine surprises with its extreme aromas and generous flavours. It’s an intense Pinot Noir, almost losing its traditional Pinot character. On the palate, there are notes of cassis, mushroom, earthy and smoky flavours, with soft tannins. There’s even a hint of raisin, halfway to a tawny port in richness. Priced at £69.99 as part of a mix six selection, it’s a distinctive and contradictory light but bold wine.
The Orin Swift “8 Years in the Desert” 2020 from California made quite an impression, both in its presentation and its contents. The bottle itself is extremely heavy and imposing, but with understated graphics and minimal text. Pouring a deep, rich colour, it immediately hints at the power within, boasting a strong 16% ABV. While it’s primarily a Zinfandel, the blend includes touches of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Grenache. On the nose, it’s jammy and fruit-forward, and the taste follows with ripe plum and raspberry, followed by a caramel middle, coming across as sweet due to its fruitiness rather than actual sugar. The tannins are so well balanced that they almost go unnoticed, contributing to the wine’s extraordinary smoothness. There’s a seamless flow from the first sip to the long finish and the smoothness might well be attributed to the high alcohol content. Surprisingly, despite being a Zinfandel, it has much in common with great Italian Primitivos (same actual grape variety), though with less spice, oak and slightly less tannins than typical for Californian Zinfandel. It felt more elegant and restrained, much like its Italian counterparts. This was my favourite wine of the tasting, priced at £49.99 when part of a mix six selection.
The Alion 2020 by Vega Sicilia, with 14.5% ABV, comes from Ribera del Duero and is crafted from 100% Tempranillo. Ribera del Duero is traditionally associated with smoky, tannic and oaky wines. However, Vega Sicilia have gained acclaim for their fruit-forward wines, particularly their cult-status Único Reserva. You can read more about Ribera wines and my experience with the Único Reserva Especial at the Top 100 Ribera del Duero tasting. Alion, however, represents a modern shift in style. It was Vega Sicilia’s first 100% Tempranillo wine, initially aged exclusively in new French oak. This shift reflects a broader movement in the region towards elegance, freshness and balance, moving away from the traditional focus on power and high alcohol. For Alion, low vine yields increase concentration, with the wine maturing in mostly new French oak and 4% American oak barrels. The 2020 vintage, more subtle and elegant than previous years, was influenced by a drier growing season, but heavy rains in September diluted the fruit, necessitating a later harvest to allow for re-concentration. The result was a wine that was less dense but maintained a refined character. The Alion 2020 has earned high praise, with 95/100 from Robert Parker, 94/100 from James Suckling, 93/100 from Vinous and 96/100 from the Penin Guide. I found it medium to full-bodied, though it’s intended to be full, with black cherry notes, hints of herbs and a slight spice. There was a cooler finish, giving the wine a freshness I didn’t expect. A fellow taster mentioned it reminded them of 100% Graciano, a grape used in Rioja blends for its perfume and spice. Compared to traditional Ribera del Duero wines, the Alion 2020 is far less tannic and oaky. It’s also very much lighter than the more full-on Único Reserva. It’s more approachable for immediate drinking, making it consumer-friendly. Priced at £88 as part of a mix six selection.
To close, most of the wines tasted were highly aromatic and full of flavour and it was a treat to experience such bold expressions. At a vote, among the whites, the Cloudy Bay Te Koko was the clear favourite, while Orin Swift and Alion shared favouritism among the reds. Personally, I found Orin Swift to be my favourite, but interestingly, it reminded me more of Vega Sicilia’s Único Reserva Especial than it did of the Vega Sicilia Alion 2020.
