I first encountered the Fairtrade Organic Malbec during a wine tasting I hosted, but with the 2022 vintage. Its atypical profile made a strong impression on me and it became one of my picks for its nuanced character, which stood out against the typical Malbecs.
The 2023 vintage, now at 12.5% ABV compared to the 13% of 2022, intrigued me. I wondered if the reduction in alcohol content was a response to upcoming UK duty tariff changes or something related to vineyard management. Climate seems an unlikely factor, given the arid, high-altitude conditions of the Famatina Valley where the grapes are grown. It’s more plausible that the variance stems from differences in the grape plots used, particularly as this wine is produced by Riojanas, a cooperative.
The wine has a red berry aroma and a cherry-dominated palate, with a hint of spicy oak. It sits between medium to full-bodied. While the 2023 vintage is slightly less aromatic and flavoursome than the 2022 it still retains a smooth and very pleasant mouthfeel.
As with the 2022, the 2023 vintage improved significantly after a day sitting in the opened bottle. However, it’s crucial to serve it at room temperature. As I initially found, drinking it too cold, from storage, dulls the otherwise rounded and luxurious mouthfeel. The alcohol reduction thankfully hasn’t diminished this wine
Fairtrade Organic Malbec is available from the Co-op in the UK, priced at £9.00, up slightly from £8.50 a year ago. For Co-op members, it occasionally goes on offer for £7.50, which is when I purchased this bottle.
