This is a southern French red with an unusual story behind its ageing. Stored for six years in one of Languedoc’s most striking natural wonders, the vast Cabrespine Chasm near Carcassonne, this wine spent part of its time resting in clay amphorae set in the upper cave, then the rest submerged in an underground river some 200 metres below the surface. Reaching this hidden chamber involves descending 80 metres of ladders, squeezing through tight passages, and finally paddling a canoe through the darkness, a journey as adventurous as the wine itself.
The extremes of this setting bring real benefits: total darkness, a constant cool temperature and zero evaporation. According to the producer, these conditions help retain remarkable purity and bring out extra layers of character.
Sylvain Delabre of Domaine Lauran Cabaret is behind the wine, a blend of two-thirds Syrah from 30-year-old vines and one-third Grenache from even older stock high in the Black Mountains above Carcassonne. The grapes come from vineyards just outside the historic Cité and near the Canal du Midi. This is the 2019 vintage, weighing in at 14% ABV, and it won Gold at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris.
So, does the wine live up to the effort behind it? Surprisingly, yes. My initial doubts quickly faded on tasting. It’s dark in colour with a slight browning at the rim, and the aroma is rich with plum, leather and a touch of game. On the tongue, it’s medium to full bodied, and the mid-point delivers a particularly deep combination of liquorice, olive, earth and herbs, with a slight suggestion of caramel in the background. Tannins are gentle, making it ready to drink now and no need to store it away.
It’s dry but delivers an intense experience. As with most good French reds, give it 20 minutes in the glass before diving in.The difference in aroma and flavour is worth the wait. £19.99 from Laithwaites.
