The 36th Annual trade/press tasting of Wines from Spain took place in May 2024, featuring UK importers and Spanish wineries. The event showcased over 245 Spanish wineries and 789 wines.
A highlight of the event was the Cava de Guarda Superior Masterclass, led by Master of Wine Peter McCombie. This session explored aged Cava and its potential food pairings, with food provided by Iberica Restaurant.
Given the large number of wines, my initial tastings were focused on those already represented in the UK market. However, towards the end, I explored some wines seeking distributors, allowing for unexpected discoveries.
These are the wines that particularly stood out for me, together with my thoughts:
All prices are recommended retail prices which will vary.
Zeno Zeno Alcohol Liberated White 2022 0.3% £10
Viura grapes. The first of two low alcohol wines, listed here, that are produced using a state of the art dealocoholisation process which prevents heating elements touching the wine. A very small amount of wine is added back at the end to enhance the phenolics. Notes of citrus and green apple with a medium finish. Bronze in International Wine & Spirits Competition (IWSC).
Zeno Alcohol Liberated Sparkling Rosé NV 0.24% £12
Rose version of Zeno, Macabeo, Garnacha grapes. Rose-gold pink appearance. Aromas of red berry fruits. Nectarine and redcurrant/raspberry notes, balanced with a creamy finish.
I was particularly taken by the following three wines imported by J&O Boutique Wines. They were purposely different and had some outstanding flavours. When writing this up I found they also have some great awards/scores:
Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez Botani Old Vines 2023 14% £23
White. Moscatel de Alejandría grapes. Dry wine. Aromas of lychee, stone fruit, floral. Aged on the lees for eight months before bottling. 91 pts James Suckling. Outstanding by Wine Spectator.
Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez La Caña Navia 2021 13.5% £31
White. Albariño grapes. Aged on the lees for twelve months. Intense version of Albariño. 92 pts Tim Atkin. 92 pts James Suckling.
Bodegas Señorío de Líbano Digma Graciano 2018 14% £39
Red. Deep purple. Very aromatic blueberries, aromatic herbs with smoky notes. Powerful, very well balanced in the mouth, long finish. 93 pts Decanter Points. 94 pts James Suckling. Gold London Wine Competition.
Bodegas Nivarius Lía Pét-Nat Rosé 2022 12.5% £17.99
Garnacha grapes. Listed here because it’s a great Pét-Nat Rosé without the usual Pét-Nat aroma and visual ‘faults’.
Bodegas Manzanos Voché Graciano 2017 14.0% £25.99
Ruby red wine. Intensely aromatic black fruits and toffee. A well structured mouth-feel, dense, well balanced with a high concentration of ripe tannins. Long and complex black fruit and spice finish.
Palacio de Manzanos Viñedo Singular 1890 Manzanos 15% 2017 £54.99
Garnacha. Low production vineyard used for a singular vineyard wine. Aromas of ripe and concentrated red and black fruit. Round, concentrated and well balanced taste with long finish.
Monastrell Summum 2021 15% £28
Made from old, ungrafted Monastrell vines. Deep, inky and rich, with layers of dark fruits and superb length.
Portia Prima 14.5% 2020 £20
Tempranillo. Cherry red colour. Very intense, blackberries, blueberries notes. Long finish. Fruity/less tannic than typical Ribera del Duero. 93 pts James Suckling. Bronze International Wine Challenge (IWC).
Faustino Icon 14% 2017 £25
Tempranillo, Graciano. Field blend from sleected bunches, 18 months in French oak. Sweet aromas of ripe fruit and toast. Flavoursome. Ripe fruit sensation. 97 pts Decanter Points. Silver International Wine Challenge (IWC). 94 pts James Suckling.
Aalto PS 14.5% 2021 £80
Tempranillo. Ribera del Duero. Intense aromas of black fruit, spices and oak. Full-bodied and well-structured, persistent finish.
Bodegas Bohórquez Reserva Ribera Del Duero 14% 2016 £28.99
Single-vineyard Reserva. Made from the oldest and highest altitude plots of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines. Notes of black fruits, chocolate and spice. Long finish.
Jesús Madrazo Rioja 13% 2021 £28
Tempranillo, Garnacha, Maturana Tinta, Graciano, Merlot. Intense cherry colour. Powerful nose of red fruits and herbs. Intense fruit flavours and smooth, long finish.
Costers del Prior, Priorat 15.5% 2018 £17.95
Cariñena, Garnacha. Deep cherry red with intense aroma of ripe black fruits. Hints of toast, coffee, dark chocolate with a long finish.
Viña Arana Gran Reserva 14.5% 2015 £44.99
Tempranillo, Graciano. Dark-cherry red. Intense aroma of ripe red fruit. Complex finish, with ripe red fruit and balsamic notes.
Viña Ardanza Reserva 14.5% 2015 £36.99
Tempranillo, Garnacha. Nose of sweet cherries and redcurrants. Intense and well-balanced in the mouth.
Torre de Oña Finca Martelo Reserva 14.5% 2016 £39.99
Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha, Viura. Nose of raspberries and blueberries. Red berry fruits and mineral taste.
Digma Graciano 2018 14% £39.00
100% Graciano. Intense aroma of blueberries and herbs. 93 pts Decanter Points. 94 pts James Suckling. Gold London Wine Competition. Long finish.
Hécula Monastrell 14.5% 2021 £12.99
100% Monastrell. Black fruit, sweet spice and liquorice notes. Great value.
Lalama Red Ribeira Sacra 14% 2020 £26.99
Mencía, Sousón, Mouratón, Alicante Bouschet, Brancellao. Red fruit notes of raspberries, redcurrants and cherries. Delicate and flavoursome.
Cosme Palacio Rioja Reserva 14.5% 2016 £30.99
100% Tempranillo. Intsense and complex aromas of black fruits. Very long finish.
93 pts Tim Atkin. Highly Commended The Wine Merchant Top 100.
Seeking Representation in the UK:
Lecco Seleccion Especial 14.5% 2011
100% Tempranillo. DO Ribera del Duero. Made from 80+ year old vineyards. Strong notes of black fruits. Fruity and nice, balanced tannins.
Toni Beneito, Bonicaire 14% 2021
Red. 100% Bonicaire. Excellent dark fruit notes, balance and finish. Dry yet fruity.
Toni beneito, Tortosí 12.5% 2023
White. 100% Tortosi. Intriguing dry wine with deep peach, apricot notes.
The Cava de Guarda Superior Masterclass, led by Peter McCombie MW, provided deep insights into premium, aged Cava. The UK ranks as the fourth largest export market for Cava, following Germany, Belgium and the USA. Organic Cava is experiencing a rapid 24% growth per year.
Due to complications related to the import implications of Brexit, only four wines of the six wines were available for tasting. Despite this limitation, the session was enlightening. Aged Cava, while often enjoyed on its own, pairs exceptionally well with food due to their greater complexity and aromatic qualities. Unlike Champagne, Cava typically requires less, if any, added sugar, thanks to the hotter climate where it is produced. Additionally, Cava utilises more white grapes compared to Champagne, which often uses more red grapes, and is less densely planted.
All the Cavas tasted were dry and fresh, with older varieties showcasing more complex, aromatic profiles, with notes of honey and nuts while retaining a mineral edge. These characteristics make Cava a great match for smoky paprika found in many Spanish dishes. Its minerality cuts through the food and top-quality sparkling wines complement spicy dishes exceptionally well.
Cava has historically been underpriced, usually offering a richer taste compared to Prosecco. Its quality has significantly improved, as evidenced by entries in the International Wine Challenge, where Peter serves as co-chair. The Cava being entered today is superior to that of a decade ago, warranting renewed interest.
The introduction of new classifications, segmentation, and zoning for Cava de Guarda in 2023 aims to distinguish premium, aged varieties. These classifications include new quality and producer stamps on bottles, with quality levels based on ageing, sustainability and limited production. This segmentation is designed to highlight the superior quality of these sparkling wines and to elevate their recognition in the global market.
