Muga is one of the most iconic and traditional bodegas in Rioja. Situated in the historic railway quarter of Haro, the capital of Rioja Alta, Muga is renowned for eschewing stainless steel tanks in favour of time-honoured methods. The bodega even operates its own cooperage, creating barrels from a variety of oak sources and carefully toasting them to achieve the perfect flavour balance. At any time, the winery houses an impressive 17,000 barrels, with 60% made from French oak and the rest from American oak sourced from Kentucky and Ohio.
This Reserva is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, aged for 24 months in oak barrels (80% French, 20% American). With an alcohol content of 14.5%, the 2020 vintage is considered a gentler year by critics such as Luis Gutiérrez from Wine Advocate, who awarded it 93 points, as did Tim Atkin.
Upon opening, the wine is initially aromatically shy and benefits from decanting. Even then, it may seem somewhat closed on the first day. However, by the second day, the wine unveils its true character, offering pleasing aromas of ripe cherries and nutmeg. The inclusion of Graciano in the blend enhances its fragrance, contributing to the overall aromatic complexity. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rich style with a dense fruit profile, featuring flavours of blackberry, vanilla, coffee and a hint of spice.
There’s a slight tannic kick, at the end of the taste, on the first day that softens beautifully by the second, resulting in a more harmonious and agreeable texture. Compared to more affordable Riojas, the Muga Reserva delivers a superior, round, mouthfeel.
This is a traditional Rioja that benefits from decanting or extended ageing, and its robust structure suggests it will age gracefully for at least a decade. Priced at £17.99 when purchasing a mix of six bottles from Majestic, it represents excellent value for money. It’s no surprise that 98% of the 91 people who reviewed it on the Majestic web site would buy it again.
