This is a return to a wine I first encountered during The Wine Society’s Autumn Press Tasting. A blend of Tenerife’s red Listán Negro and white Listán Blanco, this 2023 release comes with a story shaped by adversity. The devastating fires that swept across the island in August 2023 were the worst seen in four decades. In response, the winery made the unusual decision to bottle only a small portion of their red harvest, selecting the best of what could be salvaged from each vineyard. What has emerged is a unique cuvée, drawing together fruit that would typically be reserved for their top wines.
Grapes from the fire-damaged north have been blended with those from the south, which suffered less impact, creating something both unique and defiant. The wine spent four months maturing in large 5000-litre oak vats and finished at 13% ABV.
It pours a light brown hue and straight away there’s an inviting savoury character to the aroma, with a whisper of bacon in the background. On the tongue, this character continues with a clean dryness and medium tannins. As the wine lingers in the glass, a deliciously savoury scent lingers, adding to its charm and making it hard to resist going back for more. It proved a superb match with a chilli style dish, where the savoury character found a perfect partner.
Distinctive and a little different, it will appeal more to those who, like me, like the savoury end of the wine spectrum. I’ll certainly be buying more. To support the island’s recovery, the winery is donating €1 from every bottle sold to help replant trees in Tenerife’s forests.
Available for £14.95 from The Wine Society.
