This wine by Masseria Borgo dei Trulli comes from low yielding vineyards in the communes of Avetrana and Manduria, in the Province of Taranto in southern Puglia.
It is 100% Primitivo. The label says Appassimento, which is usually the traditional Italian method where harvested grapes are dried for weeks or months, often on mats in ventilated rooms, to concentrate sugars, acids and flavour. However, this wine takes a different approach.
In late August, when the grapes have reached perfect maturity, a special technique called il giro del picciolo, the twisting of the stem, is applied to around 50% of the bunches. By twisting the stem, no further nourishment reaches the grapes, encouraging a natural drying of the fruit on the vine. The grapes remain on the plant for about 12 days, alongside the others that benefit from late harvesting, and lose roughly 25 to 30% of their water weight, intensifying flavour and aroma. A quarter of the wine is then aged for six months in French and American barriques.
This is the 2023 vintage, 14.5% ABV, with a strong 4.1 score on Vivino.
In the glass it has a deep ruby purple colour. The aroma brings fig, spice, vanilla, chocolate and a woody character. On the taste there is lush dark fruit, warm alcohol and soft tannins, with a definite oak influence. It sits off dry, so slightly sweet, with a full body, medium tannins and medium acidity. The finish is warm, oaky and plush.
I initially liked this wine a lot, though the sweetness stopped me from drinking that much because it became overpowering. It is a superb choice for those who enjoy a touch of sweetness in their red. Usually around £14 from independent wine shops and available online from Addison Wines, Stroud Wine, Urban Grapes, Givino, Cellier, The Fine Wine Company, Tell Me Wine and Kwoff.
