The Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko 2022 from Greece is an example of the increasing popularity and distinctive character of the Assyrtiko grape, traditionally associated with the volcanic terroir of Santorini. However, under the stewardship of Stelios, the son of Yiannis who founded the Kir-Yianni winery, this particular variant is cultivated in the cooler, higher altitude vineyards of Agios Panteleimon in Northwestern Greece. This change in locale from the grape’s island origins to the mainland contributes a unique profile to the wine, thanks to the region’s sandy soil, cold winters and warm summers.
The wine presents as a pale yellow hue, inviting the nose with a citrus aroma that leads into a palate characterised by crisp, mineral notes. It’s a dry wine, yet the sensation of dryness is elegantly balanced with a lots of fruitiness, revealing citrus flavours of grapefruit with maybe a hint of apple. Its refreshing acidity and medium finish make it a very engaging drink, one that significantly evolves in complexity and aroma as it warms more and more from refrigeration. This characteristic underscores the wine’s especially dynamic nature, also meaning it should be maintained at least slightly chilled, once opened, to capture its full spectrum of flavours without it becoming too overpoweringly aromatic. 13% ABV. A special wine that’s one of my Picks.
It retails at Laithwaites for £16.99, or £14.99 when included in a Mix 6 purchase. It stands as a compelling argument for the re-evaluation of Greek wines, particularly for those whose opinions may have been shaped by the less impressive offerings of decades past. It pairs beautifully with seafood, fish dishes, and naturally, Greek cuisine.
