This, 2024 vintage, wine has swiftly risen to prominence, securing a remarkable 96 points and claiming both the IWC Vinho Verde Trophy and the Portuguese White Trophy at the International Wine Challenge 2025. Its lineage traces back to Quinta do Ameal, an estate established in the early 1700s, which Esporão rejuvenated a few years ago, bringing new vitality and renown to its white offerings. This particular vintage is a blend of Avesso, Loureiro and Alvarinho grapes and at 11 per cent alcohol it already suggests a departure from the lighter, lower-ABV wines typically associated with Vinho Verde.
There is none of the light effervescence one might expect, instead, the initial impression is of pure clarity. The aromas and flavours coalesce around bright citrus notes, lemon in precise harmony with cool mint, all reminiscent of lemon balm. There is a vivid freshness throughout, yet it is balanced by a pronounced acidity that lends depth rather than sharpness. The slightly higher-than-normal alcohol content indicates that more sugar has fermented into alcohol, leaving behind a wine that feels drier and more substantial than its peers.
This Bico Amarelo is delightful on its own, but its true strengths emerge alongside food. The added structure and weight mean it stands up well to say seafood dishes. Its lively character will also complement lighter poultry preparations, offering versatility beyond the expectations of a conventional Vinho Verde.
Remarkably approachable in price, at around £9 from The Wine Society and Great Grog, this is an opportunity to experience a more serious expression of Vinho Verde. It dispenses with the sweetness and spritz that often define the style.
