This trade tasting took place in early February 2026 at the iconic Old Billingsgate in London, with a selection of over 900 wines served, in most cases, by the producers themselves. This year’s event marked the second major tasting since Hallgarten & Novum became part of Coterie Holdings, following its acquisition in January 2024. The group now also includes Lay & Wheeler and Coterie Vaults, a fine wine storage and logistics specialist.
Founded in 1933, Hallgarten & Novum has long been known for its focus on premium wines tailored to both the hospitality sector and retail outlets. Over the past year, the company has significantly ramped up its UK presence. This has included expanding its producer base, launching new initiatives such as Bruce Jack Wines and Idris Elba’s Porte Noire and introducing a Bordeaux ‘Cellar Series’ that showcases mature vintages with impeccable provenance, sourced directly from the châteaux. They also deepened their selections while building internal capacity through strategic hiring.
In 2025, Hallgarten & Novum Wines were winners at The Drinks Business Awards, taking Drinks Company of the Year as well as On-Trade Supplier of the Year. At the International Wine Challenge Industry Awards 2025, they won On-Trade Wine Supplier of the Year and also Agent of the Year Large (£75m+). In the Sommelier Wine Awards merchants awards for 2025, they won Large Merchant of the Year, New World Merchant of the Year and Fine Wine Merchant of the Year.
With such a broad selection of wines available, I concentrated on the new additions to the portfolio. While pricing varies considerably by channel, I’ve indicated general affordability from £ (accessible) to ££££ (premium).
Here’s what I was most impressed with:
Champagne Palmer Blanc de Blancs Magnum 2013 12% ££££
Made entirely from Chardonnay, this magnum has spent an impressive 10 years on its lees. The result is a complex wine with citrus, ripe apple and mineral notes, complemented by tropical fruit from its extended ageing. It carries just enough sweetness to balance everything beautifully.
Nyetimber Classic Cuvee MV 12% ££
A traditional, multi-vintage (MV), blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It opens with an inviting citrus and shortbread aroma. The flavour layers peach, biscuit, citrus and green apple, in a balanced and lively style. As reviewed previously, this remains a consistently elegant English sparkling.
Madame F Brut NV 11.5% £
Despite its French name, this is an English sparkling wine with a bold floral aroma. Fermented in tank, not bottle, it’s made by a social enterprise supporting Queer Britain and queer artists through the Madame F Queer Britain Art. To me, it tastes like some kind of childhood sweets, with hints of, perhaps, ‘black cherry yoghurt and almond’ as stated on the label. Bonkers. It’s unconventional, but I suspect many will absolutely love it.
Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2023 13% £££
Pale lemon in colour. There’s a focused aroma of citrus and green apple, backed by flinty, chalky mineral notes. On the tongue, it’s concentrated and steely, with depth and texture supporting its dry, rounded body.
Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères 2022 13.5% £££
Delicate white flowers and citrus on the aroma lead to flavours of stone fruit and mineral. The finish is particularly round and persistent, with great elegance.
Olivier Leflaive Frères Aloxe-Corton 2022 13% ££
Made from Pinot Noir, this red Burgundy combines savoury red fruits with hints of dark chocolate and coffee. The finish is fresh and clean, adding finesse to its earthy structure.
Graeme & Julie First Flight Viognier 2025 12.5% ££
This 100% Viognier has an intense floral aroma and delivers a lovely burst of stone fruit on the taste. There’s excellent length that keeps things going.
Graeme & Julie Kamaka Terroir de Seyssuel 2022 12.5% ££
Made from Syrah, this wine is unusually floral and light, evoking the character of Pinot Noir. It has medium tannins that play off its lifted aromatics in a way that feels more playful than conflicting.
La Scolca Gavi 2024 12% £
Pale lemon in colour, it opens with lemon, green apple, white flowers and a hint of almond. Crisp citrus-apple flavours dominate the taste, finishing with a light almond twist and a clean saline end. Surprisingly round for its style.
La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi 2019 12% ££
Richer and more complex than the younger Gavi, this has nutty and other notes that suggest oak, though it is unoaked. There’s an almost lightly oaked Chardonnay-like character and weight to it.
Tramin Troy Chardonnay 2021 £££
From Südtirol-Alto Adige, this Chardonnay balances floral and citrus elements with a subtle saline edge. It is round in texture, with restrained oak adding depth without overpowering.
Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2021 14.5% £££
Classic Barolo with red cherry and floral aromas. The wine is deep and powerful, yet remains elegant. Tannins are present but finely tuned, supporting the structure without overwhelming.
Umberto Cesari Sangiovese 2021 13% £
Aromas of violet and roasted coffee lead into cherry and plum fruit. Savoury and well balanced, it offers lovely length for a wine at this price.
Villa Saletta Toscana Sangiovese 2019 14% £££
Dark in the glass, with notes of leather, tobacco and red fruit on the nose. The tannins are velvety and the finish carries on with persistence.
Villa Saletta Giulia Toscana Rosso 2019 14% £££
A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. There’s toasted oak spice, berry fruit, liquorice and violet on the aroma. The taste delivers dark fruit, chocolate and tobacco, making this one of the highlights of the tasting.
Villa Saletta 980 AD 2019 14% ££££
Made from Cabernet Franc, this wine is intense and complex, with aromas of red and black berries and spicy undertones. Rich and silky in texture, its herbal and fruity depth carries through to a long finish.
Muses Estate Mouhtaro, Thiva 2024 14% ££
From Greece and made from the rare Mouhtaro grape, this wine is deep in colour and floral in aroma, with sweet spice and blackcurrant. Full-bodied with low tannins, its extreme length and intensity stood out as one of the best in the tasting. So good, I went back for another taste at the end of the tasting.
Stina Cuvee Crni 2024 13% £
Croatia’s answer to a superb wine. Made from 70% Plavac Mali with Cabernet and Merlot, it has a concentrated aroma of black fruit, liquorice and violets. The taste leans towards red-berry, oak and is dry, with soft tannins, masses of fruit and an exceptionally long finish. Another standout for me, especially at this price level.
Dama D Roca Garnacha Carinene 2025 13.5% £
From Spain, this red wine has a deep colour and generous aromas of blackberries and black cherries. It’s fruity, long, and easy to enjoy. Brambly forest fruit and vanilla feature in the flavour, ending with soft, smooth tannins.
Lomond Wines Romans Bay S.M.V. 2022 14.5% £
From the southern tip of South Africa, this Syrah, Mourvèdre and Viognier blend is elegant and Rhône-like. Floral on the nose, with smokey and spicy notes on the palate. It’s round and balanced. Their Syrah and tropical Sauvignon Blanc are also worth trying – I loved their wines.
Follett’s Lake Breeze Shiraz 2022 14.5% £
From Australia, this Shiraz opens with plum and chocolate aromas. Rich black fruit and chocolate dominate the flavour, rounded out by a soft, long finish.
As I left the tasting, I couldn’t help but reflect on the contrast between what I had just experienced and the typical wine selection found across many hospitality venues. So much of what’s poured by the glass in restaurants, bars and hotels feels uninspired by comparison. Over lunch, I overheard a conversation between an H&N account manager and a customer, and it struck me how often wine lists are shaped more by what’s expected than by what’s exciting. Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, the familiar and the safe, tend to dominate. While there’s nothing wrong with those wines, it does feel like a missed opportunity when such a wide world of distinctive, characterful options is available.
The tasting was held at Old Billingsgate in London – the brown building bottom right
