‘Vines in a Cold Climate’ by Henry Jeffreys is an exploration into the world of viticulture in the United Kingdom. Cleverly titled as a nod to Nancy Mitford’s “Love in a Cold Climate,” the book looks into the complexities and nuances of establishing a successful vineyard in a climate traditionally considered unsuitable for wine production.
Jeffreys illustrates the significant time and financial investment required to create a scalable vineyard. He emphasises how the shifting climate has become increasingly favourable for wine production in higher latitudes. The book shines a spotlight on the diverse players in this evolving industry, including companies and individuals. Jeffreys explores how they have evolved over time, paying special attention to the personalities of the founders, investors and winemakers. He notes the varying motivations behind these ventures, ranging from passion and technical challenges to financial gain. This diversity in motivation and personality is portrayed as a crucial element for taking risks in this unconventional wine-producing region.
One of the more contentious topics Jeffreys addresses is the different methods of creating sparkling wines, a subject that has caused notable tension within the English wine industry. The book also tackles the challenges of organic and sustainable growing in the UK’s unique climate, prompting readers to consider what sustainability truly entails.
There’s discussion on urban wineries and the significant role of Essex in not only supplying urban wineries as well as many well-known non-Essex vineyards. The debate over wine naming and appellations is particularly interesting, raising questions about identity and the impact of regional labels on the perception and marketing of wines.
Brexit’s impact on the industry is not overlooked. Jeffreys assesses the troubling challenges caused by this political shift, alongside the broader implications of climate change on viticulture.
Vines in a Cold Climate leaves readers with a profound understanding of the relative youth and dynamism of the English wine industry. The book illustrates how we are currently witnessing a unique moment in the history of English – or is it British – wine, a sector that is undoubtedly one to watch in the coming years.
