This 2018 vintage of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru comes from the right bank of the River Garonne, from the family-run Château du Roy. It is made from 35-year-old vines and sits at 13.5% ABV. While it’s Merlot-led, it also includes some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
I almost didn’t review this bottle. On opening, it was underwhelming, both in aroma and flavour. I didn’t bother decanting at the time, thinking it unnecessary given the seemingly low tannins and lack of sediment, but in hindsight that was a mistake.
Even after a full day open, it still felt muted and a little disappointing. I noticed only about two-thirds of people said they’d buy it again and I could see why. It felt like a low-impact version of what a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru should be.
But then something interesting happened. This is a wine that truly transforms over time, it took two days open to reveal itself, but when it did, it was as if I’d opened a different bottle entirely.
The aroma deepened into something leathery and pronounced, likely thanks to the Cabernet Sauvignon, while the palate bloomed with black fruit, blackberry, plum, blackcurrant, wrapped in richer, more savoury notes of black treacle and spice. Chocolate, vanilla came through, and the whole thing took on a velvety mouthfeel, medium but well-integrated tannins, and a long, elegant finish. It became, surprisingly, something special.
I’ve not quite experienced a wine that opened up like this over two to three days. It made me wonder whether it simply needed more time in bottle to start with. A bit of digging confirmed that these wines are often built for ageing, some capable of developing over 30 years or more, so perhaps this was a (relatively) young bottle that just needed coaxing.
At £20 as part of a mix-six from Majestic, it’s a genuine bargain for this quality of Bordeaux. Just don’t judge it too quickly. Give it time and it rewards your patience.
